Click here for a printable, 1-page form to help organize the information discussed below.

Work Scope 

     Walls/Ceilings

If painting walls but not ceilings (or vice-versa), take a look at the edges where they meet.  If there is sloppy edging as result of prior work, or if wallpaper glue got on the ceiling, we may not be able to fix these problems without painting a surface that you had not identified as needing painting.  For instance, consider the case where you only want your walls painted, but the wall color was allowed to "bleed" up onto the ceiling when the edges were cut in previously.  If only the walls are to be painted, the painters have to either follow the sloppy lines or "cut-in" straight lines that will leave some of the old color "bleeds" showing on the ceiling.

     Trim/Doors

Baseboards, window sills, and doors show more wear and tear than other trim elements (e.g. crown molding, art ledges, "picture frame" molding, etc) in your home.  Most trim enamel used over the years has been oil-based, and oil-based enamels "yellow" over time (for a discussion of enamel types, please read the Ask the Painter article "Oil-based vs. Acrylic Enamels").  For this reason, trim does not generally "touch-up" well.  It also means that painting door casing trim and the door "slab" itself is usually an all-or-none proposition.  On the other hand, it is possible to paint baseboards and not doors because the baseboard and door casing trim only meet for a small boundary way down at floor level where a slight color mismatch is not likely to be seen.  But at eye level, even a slight color mismatch between casing trim and the door itself would be noticeable.  If the new color is close to the old, it may be possible to paint some doors but not others as long as they are not immediately adjacent to each other.  Other trim elements may not need to be painted at all, depending on their condition and whether or not a color change is desired.

     Cabinets

For stained cabinets, we can do a stain-to-paint conversion, but we do not refinish cabinets.  We have in the past, but for the labor involved to do the job right, it is more cost effective to simply "re-face" them.  Re-facing involves replacing all the doors, laminating new material on top of flat surfaces, and replacing decorative trim.  Southern Painting is not in the cabinet re-facing business, so you would need to contact a third party to investigate this option.  Re-facing is more expensive than a stain-to-paint conversion, but much less expensive than all new cabinets.  While often the lowest cost answer to the question "what can I do with my cabinets?", it is important to understand that the resulting look is that of painted, not stained, wood.  Painted cabinets may also have a faux finishing treament applied to arrive at a unique, more artistic look. 

The other question regarding cabinet work is whether or not to paint the insides of cabinets.  If we do not paint cabinet interiors, we will still paint both sides of the doors.  Most people elect not to paint cabinet interiors.

     Closets

If closets are to be painted, they will need to be emptied.  This opens up the question of where to put everything, especially if the entire house is being painted.  Some homeowners move everything into their garage, while others rent portable storage units that sit on their driveway and that can be locked.  If closets are to be painted, Southern Painting recommends staying with a neutral, off-white color.  This especially true for walk-in closets where you don't want the wall-color to reflect onto clothing when making "does this go with that" wardrobe decisions.

Paint Choice

     Brand/Grade

If you have a favorite paint brand/grade of paint, let the Estimator know.  We have a "standard" brand and grade of paint that is included in our quotes, and we have accounts open at the major paint stores so we can adjust your quote up or down to accomodate using your favorite brand.  If you have already purchased paint, we will credit you what our "standard" paint cost would have been.  Be aware that this will likely be less than you paid for the paint.  Our prices include paint, and in most cases it is to your advantage to let us buy the paint rather than credit you for paint you have purchased. 

As far as paint grades go, using a premium grade of paint is almost always worth the few extra dollars it adds to your job.  Premium grade paints generally have better "hide" which means you are less likely to need an extra coat.  And premium grade paints are typically more durable than lower grade paints.  If you wish to use flat paints, this extra durability is especially important in order to get the ability for paint to withstand the scubbing it may take to clean soil from its surface. 

For more on the differences between paint grades, please see the Ask the Painter article "Paint is Paint, Right?"

     Sheen Choice

Sheen choice (i.e. "Flat", "Satin", "Semi-Gloss", etc.) is largely a personal decision, however there are several reasons to shoose one sheen over another.  And there are also "old school" considerations that no longer apply due to advances in paint chemistry.  For a more in depth discussion of paint sheen choice, please see the Ask the Painter article titled "Which Sheen is Right for Me?"

     Specialty Paints

Does the look you're after involve a sand-textured, suede, or other specialty paint?  Do you wish to have your painting done with low V.O.C. "green" paints (see Ask the Painter article "Going Green")?  If so, be sure to let the Estimator know, as specialty paints may require extra preparation, an additional coat, or a materials upgrade.

Color Selections

      Current Color (if Re-painting)

If you want to re-paint using a color that has already been painted in your home, it is important to know what that color is.  Holding a color fan up to a wall to "match" colors is almost impossible to do.  Some builders leave a sticker with paint information on the back of a cabinet door somewhere, or they may give buyers paperwork with the colors used.  Having paint from a touch-up kit left by the builder or left over paint from any other prior work is another way to discern existing colors.

     Light versus Dark Colors

While it is not required to know exact colors at the time of getting an estimate, it is important to have a sense of how light or dark the colors may be.  This is so the Estimator can determine whether one coat or two would be required to "hide" the old color.

     Number of Colors

How many colors will be used for the work to be quoted comes into play in as much as there is a nominal "color change" charge.  This is a "per color", not a "per room" charge.  This charge is about compensating for the time it takes to clean brushes, rollers, buckets, screens, etc. when switching colors.  In addition, there is more left over paint when multiple colors are used.  Here's an example: The average 12x12 takes 1.5 gallons to cover walls & ceilings with one coat.  If 5 such rooms are being painted the same color, 7.5 gallons of paint are needed, so we buy 8 gallons and have a half left for touch-ups.  If 6 different colors are required, we need to buy 10 gallons of paint, and there will be 5 half-gallons left over.

     Help with Colors

Let us know if you are wrestling with a decision regarding colors.  We may have sample boards or color sheets of the colors you are considering, and will be happy to bring them along to our meeting with you.  Seeing a larger sample of a color away from the others on the color strip can make it look completely different to you.  And if you would like to consult with a professional Designer, let us know and we will be happy to give you some referrals.  If your job is large enough, we will even pick up the Designer's fee.

Repair

Sheetrock Patches, Tape Seams, Cracks & Nail "Pops"

We look for these types of repairs as part of our standard process for quoting a job.  But it never hurts for the homeowner to point out any areas of concern.

Woodwork

The painters have general carpentry skills and can handle window sill or shelf replacements, and some simple trim carpentry.  For work involving a higher skill level for trim carpentry, we have some excellent carpenters that we work with, and would happily provide you with a referral.

Specialty Work

      Custom Textures, Venetian Plasters, and Faux Finishes

Custom Textures, Venetian Plasters, and Faux Finishes are some example of specialty work that involve being able to match what you have in your mind's eye with what a specialty "artist" can do.  It is helpful to have a concrete example of what you are trying to achieve so that we can assess what it takes to duplicate that look.  Custom work is typically priced on a project-by-project basis, and it may take some time following the initial estimate appointment for us to be able to present you with some options.

     Acoustic "Popcorn" Ceiling Scraping

If you have a popcorn ceiling that you want scraped, we will need to know when your house was built.  Homes built prior to the 1978-1979 time frame (we use before 1980 as our cut-off) may have asbestos in the ceiling texture mix.  This is only a health concern when it is disturbed (as scraping would do), so while we could quote the work we would not actually do it unless an asbestos test came back clear.  We could work with you to get this test done, however it would be at your expense.  For more information on asbestos in ceiling texture, please read our Ask the Painter article: "When Should I Worry About Lead or Asbestos". 

Coordinating Work with Other Trades

      Remodelers

Every trade (e.g. countertops, flooring) has their own idea of when painting should be done, and it is usually before their own trade.  A key consideration is that fresh paint takes 2 - 3 weeks to fully harden ("cure").  This means that if other trades are rubbing against relatively fresh paint, they are likely to scuff it or otherwise damage the finish.  So Southern Painting's preference is to go as late in the game as possible.  We can take precautions to protect flooring, for instance, but floor installers have a tough job to do and are working very close to the walls and so are likely to damage fresh paint.  A key question to ask any other trade that insists on having the painting done first is this: "if the painting is done first and you scuff my walls or trim, will you do the touch-ups yourself and guarantee the results or pay to have the painters come back for touch-ups?".

      Roofers (yes, a consideration even for interior work)

In either of these cases, some interior work will be involved to remedy the situation.  It's a tragedy to get your interior just right only to turn around and have to re-work it due to problems cropping up related to roof replacement.